Recently, a couple of friends and I went to London. (It was 15 years since my friend Gary and I had studied at Thames Valley University -- so it was a little trip back down memory lane for us). So much had changed...
London, much to our chagrin, had become so Americanized. The Starbucks' on almost every corner were a bit disconcerting. And where did all these Pizza Huts come from??? Shame as it was, it didn't spoil our stay. We tried extremely hard to stay away from anything American during our 10-day visit...stopping into Starbucks only for desperate bathroom (toilet) visits and the undeniable need to get caffeinated when a
Cafe Nero or
Coffee Republic or
Costa Coffee weren't available to our thirsty palates.
What's great about the Cafe Neros is that they afford the same kind of relaxed appeal as a Starbucks but with a European flair. The Cafe Mochas are to die for, even if they are prepared without the exquisite expertise of a dedicated barista. Gary swears by Coffee Republic and will have to add his two pence on the subject, as I never got to sample. Costa Coffee is also a delight, but some locations don't afford the advertised air conditioning -- which on a warm day can be a bit oppressive. Nero and Costa both offer a small selection of sandwiches, which -- even with the incredibly horrible exchange rate -- won't break the bank. You can probably manage a $10 lunch if you're careful.
And speaking of reasonable lunches -- if you're eating out at least 2x a day, then make one of your stops to
Pret a Manger. You can find Prets all over Manhattan now, but they started in London. Offering cheap, fresh, pre-packaged sandwiches and salads for the on-the-go tourist or quick-to-lunch office worker, Prets are delightful and are located on almost every major thoroughfare, and then some. The best Pret we encountered was in Camdentown, which had simply great seating area in the back, up a small series of steps -- with comfy couches and cushy stools.
Speaking of comfy -- you must hit up
Kudos, off the Strand in Central London. By night, it's a popular gay bar catering to middle-/upper-class businessmen and professionals. By day, it's very low-key and relaxing environment with cushy sofas and low-set tables make for a relaxing repast during a travel worn day. You will love it.
What you simply must try when in London is the Indian cuisine. And there's so much to sample. It's said that London offers the best Indian cuisine in the world -- better even than India. Who knew? I'd have to agree. We stayed in Bloomsbury, just near Marchmont Street -- near the Russell Square tube. On Marchmont, you'll find
Motijheel's -- a tiny Indian restaurant with lunch specials that won't leave you penniless. The garlic naan is out of this world and the chicken tikka is outrageous. You won't be disappointed. I lost count how many times Andrew and I visited -- the staff grew tired of us. LOL... and Gary, who hadn't tried Indian was swayed to its enticing tastes.
English food is known for its heartiness. One-dish meals are quite popular and the best place for an all-inclusive snack is
Square Pie. You can find them popping up all over London. Reasonably priced for a filling meal -- your choice of pie can be served with mash (rustic mashed potatoes) and mashy peas (coarsely mashed sweet green peas). Get both -- you won't be disappointed.
Now, for Fish & Chips... a must when in London -- and do put lots of malt vinegar and salt on your chips, or I do believe the gods will smite you if you don't. You have lots to choose from here and it can be daunting. The best Fish & Chips are from shops that sell just that, and nothing else. But, they have crazy hours and the lines can be long. If you're in for pub atmosphere, you'll find most pubs do serve their version during limited hours of the day and evening. We frequented
The Rocket in Euston -- it was close, cheap and the large screens afforded us great views of the Manchester United matches. It's a modern-ish pub with a young crowd. If you're looking for something more traditional, try Mabel's in the same area -- or duck into various pubs in your travels. You'll find friendly staff and great chats with locals, who can lend you amazing inside tips the travel books won't tell ya.
Wash down your Fish & Chips with hard cider, which flows liberally from the tap at every pub. Why it's not popular stateside, I will never know. It's a refreshing libation with roughly the same alcohol content as a beer, but is deliciously sweet and tart and just, well dammit, yummy. The best concoction I sampled was from
Strongbow. Ahh, I can taste it now.
Tea... what's London without tea? It would be a friggin' crime to go to London and not enjoy a proper tea service. Even though coffee is actually easier to find and more readily available, you'll find tea is still a very important part of English life. For a fabulous Cream Tea (2 scones, clotted cream, and all the jam you can muster coupled with a personal pot of loose tea brewed to perfection), head to one of the
Patisserie Valerie's located throughout London. It may be French, but the pastries will have your head swimming and the tea will warm you up. It's a loud, but pleasant atmosphere. I definitely recommend the location in Marylebone over the one in Spitalfields, for the charming decor and pastoral murals. Just a short walk from St. Paul's and Mary-le-Bow.
Want a traditional English breakfast (eggs, bangers, tomatoes, toast, baked beans, and bacon)? Go no further than your Bed & Breakfast. You haven't booked a B&B? For shame. Why stay at a hotel, when you can stay at a local B&B for a fraction of the price and get breakfast served to you daily? It's a no-brainer. For excellent rates and selections: Head to
B&B Net. We stayed at The Mentone Hotel, located at Cartwright Gardens -- a quiet crescent (except after the pubs close) in Bloomsbury. It's utilitarian and clean; the the staff is pleasant and the food was good.
It is said that English food is really not worth eating. I beg to differ. I think you will, too.
